Shoe and the manufacture thereof



April 9 3- o. c. ADAMS SHOE AND THE MANUFACTURE THEREOF Origi nal FiledNov. 13, 1951 :2 Sheets-Sheet 1 A/VENHZQ A r-ii 25, 1933. O, ADAMS1,905,205

SHOE AND THE MANUFACTURE THEREOF Original Filegi Nov. 13, 1931 2Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Apr. 25, 1933 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE OSCARC. ADAMS, OF LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR' T0 UNITED SHOE MACHINERYCORPORATION, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY snot.AND THE MANUFAGIURE rrrnanor Application filed November 13, 1931, SerialNo. 574,823. Renewed January 28, 1933.

This invention relates to improvements in shoes and methods ofmanufacturing shoes and particularly to the manufacture of shoes havingcement attached soles.

At the present time a considerable number of shoes are beingmanufactured in which the outsoles are attached with cement in place ofthe more usual stitching. This method of sole attaching is particularlyadapted to the manufacture of womens shoes having a trim and daintyappearance since the lasts are left in the shoes, as they are in themanufacture of Goodyear welt shoes, until the shoes are completed andsince the marginal portions of the soles can be reduced in thickness toa very considerable extent without interfering substantially with thewearing qualities of the shoes. Moreover, the relatively high pressureunder which the shoe and sole are held while the cement sets serves toforce the sole into the most intimate contact with the shoe bottom.

It is an object of the invention to improve the manufacture of shoes ofthis type in such a way as to provide maximum flexibility of theforepart, particularly at the ball portion of the shoe, withoutdetracting from the desirable qualities noted above which this type ofshoe possesses. Accordingly, the illustrated shoe, which constitutesapreferred embodiment of the invention, is welted at its forepart, thewelt being stitched to the marginal portion of the lasted shoe upper andto a lip extending about the forepart of the insole of the shoe. Thiswelt, if the lightest type of shoe is to be made, can and should beconsiderably lighter than the welt used in the manufacture of evenlight-weight Goodyear welt shoes since no great strain comes upon thewelt because of the fact that the outsole, which is to be cementattached, is secured not only to the welt but also to the edge surfacesresulting from the inseam trimming operation and comprising the innermargin of the welt, the edge surface of the shoe upper and the trimmedlip of the insole. The shank portion of the upper, as illustrated. islasted flat against the bottom of the insole and the outsole of the shoeiscement attached at the shank directly to the marginal portion of theshoe upper. Thus the shank portion of the sole can be given the fine andclose edge which is characteristic of most light womens shoes havingcement attached soles, while the forepart, by reason of its weltconstruction and the relatively narrow band'of cement with which thesole is attached, is comparable in flexibility to a light-weightflexible Goodyear welt shoe. At the same time, the edge of the sole atthe forepart may be trimmed more closely than is practicable in Goodyearwelt shoe construct on and may also be thinner since the edge portionsof the insole and welt are intact, not being perforated as by the needleof the outsole stitcher used in the manufacture ofGoodyear welt shoes.Advantages of such a shoe, particularly at a time like the present whenthe emphasis in the manufacture of womens shoes is so largely on style,will be obvious.

With the above and other objects in view the invention will now bedescribed with reference to the accompanying drawings and pointed out inthe claims.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a plan view of an insole prepared for use in the manufactureof shoes in accordance with my invention;

Fig. 2 illustrates a shoe manufactured in accordance with my invention,after the completion of the lasting operation;

Fig. 3 is a sectional view on the line I III-III of Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 illustrates the shoe of Fig. 2 after a welt has been stitched toits forepart, the inseam trimming operation performed and the bottom ofthe shoe prepared for the reception of sole-attaching cement;

hFig. 5 is a side elevation of the completed s 0e;

Figs. 6 and 7 are sectional views on the line VI-VI and VIIVIIrespectively of Fig. 5.

In the manufacture of shoes, by the practice of my invention asdisclosed herein, the insole 8 is prepared, as shown in Fig. 1, with aIi 10 extending peripherally of the forepart of t e insole at ashortdistance from the margin 12 thereof, the lip terminating, as illustratedat 14, at the forward end of the shank portion 16 of the insole. Asillustrated, herein, the forepart of the insole is reinforced with apiece of duck or other suitable fabric 5 18, cemented to the bottom ofthe insole and to the inner surface of the lip 14 which is preferablyformed by two upwardly extendmg portions separated, except at theirbases, from the surface of the insole by an appro- 1 priate channelingoperation as best indicated in Fig. 3. Thus the forepart of the insole,as illustrated, is of substantially the same character as the forepartof the well-known economy insole commonly used in the manufac- 15 tureof Goodyear welt shoes, though it should be understood that thestructure of the insole may be substantially varied without departingfrom my invention. The shank and heel seat portion of the insole, as

p illustrated herein, are without lip or channel, though the leather orother material from which the insole is formed may be reinforced ifdesired at the heel seat or at the shank and heel seat in any suitablefashion. Y

The insole 8 is mounted in the usual manner one last 20 (Fig. 2) uponwhich a shoe upper 22 is assembled and pulled over. The side lastingoperation is next performed. At the forepart, that is, forwardly of thefront of the shank portion of the shoe, the lasting is done as in themanufacture of Goodyear welt shoes. As illustrated, the upper 1s securedin lasted relation, from the front of the shank to about the tip line ofthe shoe, by staples 24 (Fig. 2) driven through the shoe upper and theli 10 of the insole with their legs substantial y parallel to the shoebottom, for example by a side lasting machine of the character disclosedin Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,796,451, granted March 17,1931 on an application filed in the name of George Goddu. The upper atthe shank portion of the shoe is illustrated as secured in lastedrelation by staples 26 (see particularly Figs. 4 and 6) driven into theinsole and having their legs deflected without passing completelythrough the insole so that there is no metal upon the inner surface ofthe insole. The working of the upper into lasted relation at the shankand the securing together of the upper and the shank in this way mayadvantageously be performed with the aid of a machine of the characterdisclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,815,297, grantedJuly 21, 1931 on an application filed also in the name of George Goddu.Thus in the shank portion of the shoe the overlasted marginal portion ofthe upper is held flat against the shank portion of the insole.

The toe and heel ends of the shoe may be lasted in any approved manner,for example with the aid of a bed lasting machine of usual construction.As illustrated, the overlasted marginal portion of theupper at the heelseat of the shoe is held in lasted relation to the insole by fastenings30. The toe portion of the upper, as shown in Fig. 2, is temporarilyheld in lasted position by a wire 32 and anchor tacks 34 which, ofcourse, are subsequently removed, after the insertion, if desired, ofstaples similar to those shown at 24 but inserted by an upper staplingmachine of usual construction.

A Welt 36 (Fig. 4) is stitched to the forepart of the shoe, the inseam38 (Figs. 4 and 7) being sewed by a stitcher of the character commonlyused in attaching the welts of Goodyear welt shoes. After the welt hasbeen attached, the surplus portion of the shoe upper, the lip of theinsole and the marginal portion of the welting adjacent to the stitchesare trimmed off, preferably with the aid of an inseam trimming machine,leaving the edge surface of those portions of the stock but slightlyremoved from the plane of the bottom of the insole, as illustrated at 40in Fig. 4. The welt may be separated from the shoe upper by a weltbeating operation, or in any other suitable way, to cause it to standout in the plane of the shoe bottom, as illustrated also in Fig. 4. Ifnecessary, an surplus material may be trimmed from t e margin of theshoe upper in the shank and the inseam may be rolled, for example withthe automatic leveling machine commonly used in leveling the outsloes ofGoodyear welt shoes.

A shank piece 42 is secured to the insole and filler 44 is applied, atleast to the low portions of the forepart of the insole. Any suitabletype of filler may be used, the illustrated filler, which is appliedsparingly, be-

ing composed of finely ground cork and rubber cement. Then theoverlasted marginal portion of the shoe upper at the shank is roughened,as indicated at 46, as also is the welt 36 and the surfaces 40 attheforepart resulting from the inseam trimming operation, thus preparingthose parts for the reception of a coating of pyroxylin cement which isapplied and allowed to dry.

The outsole, indicated at 50 in Figs. 5, 6 and 7, is prepared in themanner usual in the manufacture of shoes having cement attached soles.Its marginal portion may be reduced in thickness at the forepart, ifdesired, and articularly at the shank, after which the esh surface ofthe sole is roughened over an area perhaps of an inch wide and extendingperipherally of the sole from about the heel breast line forwardly aboutthe toe of the shoe and back to the heel breast line at the other side.A coating of pyroxylin cement is then applied to this roughened portionof the sole and permitted to dry after which the cement is softened oractivated with a suitable softener, for example of the characterdisclosed in an ap lication for Letters Patent of the United StatesSerial No. 508,368, filed January 12,

1931, in the name of Walter H. Wedger, and the sole applied to the shoebottom and held under pressure while the cement sets. The softener maybe applied both to the sole and to the shoe bottom, though under mostconditions it is entirely satisfactory to apply it only to the sole. Thepressure can advantageously be applied to the shoe and sole with the aidof a machine of the character disclosed in an a plication for LettersPatent of the United tates Serial No. 388,739, filed August 27, 1929 inthe name of Milton H. Ballard.

After the sole has been attached its edge is trimmed, set, etc., a heel52 attached, the last removed and the shoe treed in the usual manner.

The Welted construction of the forepart of my improved shoe eliminatesthe tendency to burn the foot which is found in many shoes having cementattached soles and results from the sealing or air-proofing action ofthe film of cement between the outsole and the shoe upper in such shoes.In this respect the shoes manufactured in accordance with my inventionresemble Goodyear welt shoes and permit the so-called breathing throughthe inseam which prevents overheating of the foot. On the other hand,the shank construction herein disclosed permits the use, if desired, ofsoles having extremely narrow shank portions, cottage roof shanks or1ndeed shanks of any other desired character. In this connection itshould be noted that molded or conformed soles may be used and that thefitting of wood heels is facilitated in that the construction of theshoe bottom permits the width of the sole at the heel breast line to begoverned exactly by the width of the heel.

Having thus described my invention what I claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. A shoe having its upper secured in lasted relation to its insole atits shank portion by staples driven through the marginal portion of theupper materials and 1nto the insole in such a manner that the legs ofthe staples are deflected withoutpass ing entirely through the insole,and havlng lts upper at the forepart held in lasted relation to theinsole by stitching passing through a Welt extending about the forepartof the shoe and through the marginal portlon of the shoe upper and thebetween substance of the lnsole, the outsole of the shoe being securedto the marginal portion of the shoe upper at the shank and to thewelting extending about the forepart of the shoe upper as well as to theadjacent portion of the shoe bottom by pyroxylin cement.

2. A shoe having its upper secured at its shank portion in lastedrelation to its insole by fastenings driven through the marginal portionof the upper and into the insole 1n such a manner that they do notextend entirely through the insole, and having its upper at the forepartheld in lasted relation 7 to the insole by stitching passing through thebetween substance of the insole, the marginal portion of the shoe upperand a welt extending about the forepart of the shoe, the outsole of theshoe being cement attached to the marginal portion of the shoe upper atthe shank and to the welting extending about the forepart of the shoeupper as Well as to the adjacent portion of the shoe bottom.

3. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprisesmounting upon thebottom of a last an insole the forepart of which isprovided with a peripherally extending lip located a short distance fromthe margin of the insole, working the marginal portion of the shoe upperinto lasted relation tothe insole, securing it in lasted relation flatagainst the shank portion of the insole with permanent fastenings andagainst the lip at the forepart of the insole, stitching a welt to themarginal portion of the lasted shoe upper and to the lip at the forepartof the insole, trimming the surplus upper, welt and insole-lip materialfrom the shoe bottom, and attaching an outsole to the shoe bottom withpyroxylin cement.

4. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprisesmounting upon the bottom of a last an insole the forepart of which isprovided with a peripherally extending lip located a short distance fromthe margin of the insole and the shank portion of which is without sucha lip, working the marginal portion of the shoe upper into lastedrelation to the insole, securing the upper in lasted position flatagainst the marginal portion of the insole at the shank by insertingpermanent fastenings, securing the forepart of the shoe upper also inlasted relation to the insole, thereafter stitching a Welt to themarginal portion of the forepart of the lasted shoe upper and to the lipat the forepart of the insole, trimming the surplus material from thelip of the insole, the margin of the shoe upper and the portion of thewelt adjacent thereto about the forepart of the shoe, and cementattaching an outsole to the shoe bottom,

5. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprisesmounting upon the bottom of a last an insole the forepart of which isprovided with a peripherally extending lip located a short distance fromthe margin of the insole and the shank portion of which is without sucha lip, working the marginal portion of the shoe upper into lastedrelation to the insole and securing it in lasted relation at the shankby staples driven through the marginal portion of the upper into thebody of the insole and curving through the substance of the insolewithout extending to the inner surface of the insole, securing the foreart of the shoe upper, at least from the orward end of the shank portionto about the tip line, by staples driven through the marginal portion ofthe upper and the lip of the insole, stitching a welt to the marginalportion of the lasted shoe upper and to the lip of the insole, said weltextending from the forward end of the shank portion of the shoe aboutthe toe and back to the forward end of the shank portion on the otherside, trimming the surplus material from the lip of the insole, themargin of the shoe upper and the portion of the welt adjacent theretoabout the forepart of the shoe, roughening the overlasted marginalportion of the shoe upper at the shank of the shoe and the welt as wellas the trimmed edge surfaces of the insole lip, shoe upper and welt atthe forepart of the shoe, and cement attaching an outsole to the shoebottom.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

OSCAR C. ADAMS.

